Written by and Photos by Phil Atkinson. Posted in Rides
Wade “Stubbsie†Stubbs and I are a couple of Aussies who celebrated the completion of an extraordinary pole-to-pole adventure—from the Arctic to the Antarctic Circles.
Countless guidebooks have been left in our wake as 16 countries, 42,000 miles and 276 days disappear in a magical blur of amazing riding, great destinations, and best of all—the fantastic people who have shared their lives with us along the way. To give it some perspective, this is the equivalent of riding from New York to Los Angeles 15 times—or almost two laps around the earth at the equator… all with only 33 crashes!
Everyone dreams, everyone has a wish. Unfortunately, not everyone will have the opportunity to chase their dreams, or live long enough for their wishes to come true. Wade and I have lived long enough to realize our dream. But, wouldn't it be amazing to help others who might not live long enough to reach their dreams on their own? This is why we decided to raise money for Make-A-Wish International—riding circle-to-circle… turning miles into wishes.
We are proud to be part of their noble mission: “To grant the wishes of children with life-threatening medical conditions to enrich the human experience with hope, strength and joy.†Our involvement with Make-A-Wish International truly enhanced the quality of our trip, giving it special meaning from the moment we made the decision to raise money for these children. To date we've raised $15,000, and with a third of proceeds from our forthcoming documentary to be donated, we hope to raise a lot more.
Riding circle-to-circle to turn miles into wishes was an absolute blast, and if two guys growing up in small town Australia can ride from one end of the world to the other, anyone can. Looking back, as we sat in the old school bus as kids, we always talked about doing a big trip together. It may have taken 20 years, but we finally did it.
Best of all was a cruise in the Kenai Fjords National Park. As we began to walk down to the boat, it seemed as if we'd been zapped by the laser from the movie “Honey I Shrunk the Kids!†And rather than cruising the wilderness, it felt like we were being pushed around an aquarium in Sea World.
There we experienced close encounters with humpback whales and three families of Orcas, including a newborn. There were a variety of seals, some otters, and bird life that would have even the most avid watcher twitching with envy.
Aialik (pronounced eye-all-ick) is an Eskimo word; meaning “an eerie or dangerous place.†Thunderous noise pulsated through us as Volkswagen-sized chunks of ice broke off and smashed into the sea—giving Aialik glacier its apt name.
As a result of the feelings this place created deep within me, I christened my bike Aialik. She's not so dangerous as tough, but I love the thought that she's named after somewhere I've been and experienced. Wade's bike Smokey was named in honor of his old pony that always managed to deliver him home safely.
The aim of our trip was to cross both the Arctic and Antarctic Circles while experiencing as much as possible in between, both on and off the bikes. This point-of-view launched us into tackling adventurous feats I'd never have otherwise, like skydiving and paragliding. It also led us to biker-extraordinaire events like the Calgary Stampede and Sturgis Bike Rally.
However, nothing can compete with Bonneville Speed Week, where getting up close on the salt and rubbing elbows with the drivers of these unbelievable high-speed machines is an experience that cannot be put into words.
All in all, we managed to cross a total of 31 international borders—and all but one was pretty painful. The Mexico to Guatemala border was one of those special occasions when you just sit back and smile. It's actually a river, with no bridge in sight, meaning we had to load each bike onto a local canoe barely wide enough to fit their famous boxer engines.
The big BMWs made the canoes look like toys, and I was sure one of us was going to capsize. So, as our little crafts gingerly pulled away from the bank, everyone, including the drivers, held their breath. I was happy to see Wade's boat backing out first, just in case… as it floated off everyone sucked in a long overdue lung full of air. This adrenalin-pumping border crossing is not for the faint-hearted, but is definitely what adventure riding is all about.
Perhaps one of the most satisfying moments was riding up the world's highest active volcano in Chile, where we passed the 17,500 ft. mark. For us, this was a great achievement as altitude sickness was a constant threat, and shortness of breath made it extremely difficult to manhandle the bikes through the soft volcanic ash—a substance more difficult to navigate than sand! There was so much ash burying the track it had to be marked with poles along the edge so one could find the way.
At times we had to help each other push the bikes as it was impossible to ride through the wheel-swallowing stuff. Now this is what mates are for, and a great example of the benefits of riding with a friend. I'd never ride there solo, as without help the possibility of not making it back is quite real. It was extremely difficult, and eventually, after being pushed to the limits of our endurance, we were forced to turn round. A day I'll not soon forget.
Another memorable time occurred when we camped on the beach half way down the Baja peninsula. The darkness rolled in over the Pacific Ocean, wrapping round us like a warm blanket. My bed was rolled out underneath the stars, bathed in moonlight—no need for a tent.
The moon was beautiful, but like a perfect lead in a Broadway musical, it didn't quite shine so bright as to hide the other stars. They were in perfect harmony. I felt relaxed… free… this was the moment we'd dreamt about for so long.
I remember getting up that morning, turning to Wade and saying.
“Hey Stubbsie. You know what's brilliant about today?â€
“Yeah, I haven't fallen off yet!â€
“Well, that's true, but that's not what I meant. Today we ride somewhere exciting that we've never been before. You know what's even better? Tomorrow we get to do the same, and the next day, and the next day, for another six months. Can you believe it?â€
Change happens in different ways, and usually when you least expect it. Perhaps the most emotional and provocative event was when we visited the town of Yungay, Peru. In 1970 an avalanche left the summit of Mount Huascaran (22,200 ft.) at speeds of over 185 miles an hour. House-sized boulders, mud and ice bore down onto the town without warning.
Within a little under two minutes a muddy river of death hit—escape was impossible… devastation was total. Not a single building was left standing. But a lucky few miraculously survived, as they had found refuge in a church spire that was picked up and carried away. A bus, upside down and folded in half, serves to demonstrate the power and the force of nature. Only 400 survivors were left to re-build the village they loved.
It was decided not to excavate anything, or remove a single body. Instead it's become a wonderful and deeply moving memorial. To walk above an entire town of over 18,000 people is quite emotional… leaving one with an urgent feeling to “live life now, as you never know what will come with the rising of the sun tomorrow.â€
Such an experience forces you to search deep within. If a similar tragedy struck today, could I look back on my life and smile? Would I feel like I'd made the best of every situation, that I'd squeezed every last drop from life? You only have one chance, so you'd best get on and start living!
That doesn't mean you have to break up with your partner, or run away with your secretary or pool boy, quit your job, or buy a sports car…. What it does mean is to take that dream that's always been at the back of your mind, and start making a realistic plan for how to achieve it—then DO IT. It's a very simple approach to life. Dream it, plan it, live it. Everyday.
Bike Modifications and Accessories
Öhlins shock: Worth every penny.
Aprovik exhaust: More power, deep throaty roar. Forget it if you're on a budget.
ABS: As you need a BMW computer to reset them if damaged, we left them off.
Starcom bike-to-bike coms: Get decent coms, and go WIRELESS.
Panniers: Buy aluminum, line it with marine carpet and buy a waterproof clothes bag.
Clothing: BMW's Rally 3 suit, tough, comfortable and offers great protection. Buy a full one-piece rain suit.
Bike boots: GET WATERPROOF BOOTS.
Helmet: Shoei Hornet DSÂ Â dual-purpose. Awesome, but test it if your bike has a small wind shield.
GPS: YES.
Ortlieb bags: Waterproof. Tough. Invaluable.
Pacsafe: A wire mesh that you can wrap soft bags in and lock to the bike.
LD Comfort: The shorts are vital for those long days in the saddle, especially the beginning.
Ex-ped sleeping mats: Awesome.
Space saver: A spare compression sack (like you get with sleeping bags) is great for storing clothes, tents, etc.
Centeck AP-1 fuse box: Five available fuses to run axillary equipment, e.g. cigarette lighters and/or Powerlet outlets.
Sock-style air filter: Available from Touratech and really work.
Gerbing heated vests: Fantastic.
Throttle control: DON'T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT IT.
Protective brackets: From Touratech. Priceless.
RAM mounts: Great for mounting anything.
S.P.O.T. tracker: Worth a look, for safety's sake.
And a nod to Max BMW, Touratech and Expedition Trips